Everyone remotely interested in skincare is already acquainted with Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide or Vitamin B3. Topical application can improve hyperpigmentation, acne, hydration, skin barrier function as well as improve the signs associated with aging. Can you use Niacinamide and Ascorbic Acid skincare together? No, not if you are interested in getting the most from your skincare.
pH Matters
Supported by loads of research and fans across the globe, few skincare ingredients are as beloved as Vitamin C, also known as Ascorbic Acid. Unlike many of the derivatives, stability and effectiveness of ascorbic acid skincare requires a pH of 3.5 or lower. Mixing it with Niacinamide or any other skincare, diminishes strength along with potential skin benefits.
Who wants watered-down skincare? Not this girl, therefore I can’t possibly recommend it for my clients.
When using Ascorbic Acid skincare, wait 10 to 15 minutes before applying any additional skincare.
Why wouldn’t you maximize the potential from your hard-earned Vitamin C skincare?
Flushing Queens
Yes, the Niacinamide in your skincare can hydrolyze into Niacin, especially with the introduction of acids or excessive heat. Subtler than the full-blown niacin flush, you may experience minor redness, tingling or increased warmth or no symptoms at all. Although any reaction is likely to be temporary, they produce no additional skin improvements – pain with no gain. Just because you can doesn’t mean that you should. Consider Vitamin C derivatives, like Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate or Ascorbyl Palmitate, which boost Niacinamide skincare.
Niacinamide Ascorbate Debate
It will take a good long while and heaps more research to catch up with the overwhelming clinical data for Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide, when used individually.
Many cosmetic chemists and formulators argue that mixing Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide merely produces Niacinamide Ascorbate. While 100% accurate, there is currently too little research supporting the skin benefits of Niacinamide Ascorbate, in my opinion. Until then, this formulator will continue to avoid mixing the two.
As always great advice!