Vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin essential for the synthesis/maintenance of collagen. The human body is incapable of synthesizing or storing Vitamin C, relying instead on dietary and/or supplemental replenishment. Also known as Ascorbic Acid (Synthetic), L-Ascorbic Acid (Natural), or AA.
Skin Benefits:
- Brightens: Fades pigmentation/discoloration. Diminished dark spots by 62.5% in 16 weeks with 5% ascorbic acid applied daily.
- Firms: Supports Collagen Production. Improved collagen production by 800% (in vitro).
- Protects: Antioxidant function defends against environmental aggressors (UVA/UVB, pollution, et. al.)
- Smooths: Decreases Roughness. In 3-month blind study (in vivo) of 10% ascorbic acid applied daily:
- Improved smoothness and tone by 57.9% based on photographic assessment.
- Improved smoothness and tone by 84.2% based on self-assessment from participants receiving active treatment.
Efficacy:
- Effective in topical applications ranging between 5-20% concentrations.
- Combinations with Vitamin E (Tocopherol) and Ferulic Acid help to boost photoprotective capabilities.
- Ascorbic Acid degrades quickly with exposure to light, heat, and alkalinity, so choose airless/opaque containers and acidic formulations (4.0 ph or lower).
- Avoid any vitamin C skincare that has an orange tint. As ascorbic acid oxidizes, it takes on an orange to brown tint.
- Whether pigmented from oxidation, dyes, or additional ingredients, it is best to stick with vitamin c skincare that is clear or colorless.
- If you notice a change in color, discard the skincare.
- Sensitive skin may better tolerate lower concentrations, especially naturally sourced extracts or seed oils, or alternative Vitamin C derivatives.
- Power Combinations include Alpha Lipoic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Glutathione, Green Tea, L-Arginine, Peptides, and Vitamin E.
- Don't mix Ascorbic Acid with:
- Niacinamide to avoid producing Niacinamide Ascorbate. Best used individually or consider the Vitamin C-Ester, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.
- Retinol, AHAs, and BHAs, but can be used individually within your skincare routine.
Sources:
- Synthetic
- Algae, Blackberry, Broccoli, Cranberry, Goji Berry, Grape, Hibiscus, Honeydew, Kelp, Pomegranate, Red Raspberry, Seabuckthorn, Watermelon
References:
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Journal of the America Academy of Dermatology, November 2012, pages 1103–1024.
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International Journal of Dermatology, 2004 Aug, 43(8):604-607, A double-blind randomized trial of 5% ascorbic acid vs. 4% hydroquinone in melasma.
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Archives of Otolaryngology – Head and Neck Surgery, 1999 Oct 5:125(10):1091-1098, Use of topical ascorbic acid and its effects on photodamaged skin topography.
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Proceeding of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America, 1981 May; 78(5): 2879-2882, Regulation of Collagen Synthesis by Ascorbic Acid.
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Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Vol. 11 (4) – Dec 1, 2012, Stability, Transdermal Penetration, and Cutaneous Effects of Ascorbic Acid and its Derivatives.
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Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Vol. 4 (1) – Jan 1, 2005, Relevance of Vitamins C and E in Cutaneous Photoprotection.
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The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2005 Oct, 125(4), Ferulic Acid Stabilizes a Solution of Vitamins C and E and Doubles its Photoprotection of Skin.
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Experimental Dermatology, 2003 Jun, 12(3), Topical Ascorbic Acid on Photoaged Skin.
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BMC Dermatology 2004;4:13, Topically Applied Vitamin C Increases the Density of Dermal Papillae in Aged Human Skin.
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Clin Nutr 2005;24:979-987, Treatment with supplementary arginine, vitamin C and zinc in patients with pressure ulcers.
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Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2017 Jul, 10(7).
Thank you so much.. Your website has been really helpful. Am always here reading. Thanks alot
love ctherapy! thanks for keeping it clean!
tried them all, yours is the best small batch c serum. I never buy vitamin c that has sat on a retail shelf.
Thanks, Ashlee – it’s one of our favorites, too!
Nice to learn why c+therapy works for my skin. Never need to follow with a moisturizer like most serums. Never change it please?